WSET School London recently hosted an Explore Japanese Koshu session led by Raku Oda, MW student and Sommelier at The Fat Duck. The tasting coincided with the visit to the UK by representatives of Koshu of Japan, the promotion agency for these enigmatic wines, which held a number of trade tastings alongside this WSET event.

I’d previously done a Koshu tasting with 67 Pall Mall in October 2021 during the pandemic when we were all grasping for new and exciting wine experiences. That was my first experience with Japan’s major wine grape and ended up being an exercise in cliche, with yuzu, shiso and soy notes littering my tasting notes. The use of yuzu is absurd: it is one of the most pronounced citrus aromas and pronounced is not something of which Koshu can be accused.

Oda was a fantastic guide for these wines and I really commend him for the presentation he made and the honesty assessments he made of the wines. There was a good introduction to the Yamanashi wine region, its climatic and geological influences, and the sub-regions from which we were tasting.

There were a total of ten wines tasted represented a range of styles. The information provided regarding alcohol content and price was provided at the event [February 2022].

Fujiclair Koshu Sparkling 2022
Traditional method with nine months on the lees. Initially quite grapey on the nose, eventually opening up a bit to show ripe red apple, pear, peach, pastry, and lemon notes. It tastes a little more savoury than it smells – notes of brown bread and green olive. On the palate it is dry with only medium acidity, which means it lacks a bit of verve. It has medium flavour intensity, medium body, medium length of finish. Lacking freshness – there is just not enough acidity to make this sing. 84/100

Chateau Honjyo Koshu Sparling Hoshiai-no-sora 2020
Traditional method with some orange wine in the blend, three years on the lees. A hit of fermenting rye bread on the nose with loads of ripe grapefruit and lemon, apricot and yellow apple. It has that sweet medlar note. On the palate it has good complexity with some bruised apple, peach, dried orange rind and brown bread notes. Some nice briny notes linger into the finish. There is more acidity here than the Fujiclair and it is all the better for it. Interesting. 88/100

Sainte Neige Wine Co. Makioka Koshu Orange Wine 2022
Three days of maceration in stainless steel produces a pale orange wine. There isn’t much intensity on the nose but you can find some grapefruit, white peach and apple notes if you really go searching. Eventually it gives up some herbal notes of dried sage. A hint of residual sugar maybe takes this into off-dry territory. Tangy but not much body or bite. I LOVE the label. 83/100

Lumiere Winery Prestige Class Koshu Orange Wine 2022
Carbonic maceration for 10-13 days, fermentation with wild yeasts and five months in old oak produce a captivating wine that shimmers in pale gold in the glass. There is a funky note on the nose underpinned by blood orange, peach, ripe apple, lemon and musk melon notes. It tastes just like it smells. It is chewy and slightly tannic. The texture, taste and balance come together to deliver a smooth, elegant and gastronomic wine. Serious winemaking. Well priced at £28.50. 90/100

Kurambon Wine Co. Sol Lucet Koshu 2023
Made exclusively for export. Characterful on the nose with peach Haribo, lemon, apple, lime and white grapefruit. A bit generic – could be Aligote or Chardonnay or numerous other white wines. A bit more lively on the palate with intense, punchy acidity. Very much the zesty side of Koshu. Accessible and a entry to the explore the grape, though £26.50 seems steep. 85/100

Manns Wine Co. Yamanashi Koshu 2022
Freshly scented with citrus and white fruit notes. Dry with moderate acidity. Nicely made white wine with notes of apple and lemon, meaning it could be just about anything. Fresh, subtle and slightly pointless. It’s £20.00 – you could get two bottles of something more interesting for that. 83/100

Katsunuma Jozo Co. Koshu Aruga Branca Issehara 2022
Single vineyard, fermented in enamel tank, aged on the lees. It has a beautiful subtle pink tinge. Pronounced nose of ripe lemons, dried apricot, peach, tangerine, melon, pink grapefruit, jasmine, tea and oyster shell. Greener and whiter on the palate – grapefruit and lemon, apple and pear, mineral. High and refreshing acidity. It is dry, crisp and delicious. This is like top class Chablis. It is also, we are told, retailing for £98.00 which make me wonder who it is aimed at. Still, this is a great wine. 90/100

Chateau Mercian Iwade Koshu Ortum 2021
Single vineyard, early harvest, stabilisation. The Chablis comparisons continue here – lemon, grapefruit, oyster shell, apple and herbal notes on the nose. Same on the palate, with loads of green apple and a hint of tarragon. Dry with high acidity, this wine of finesse, balance and freshness. Grown up and gastronomic. It would match beautifully with sashimi or ceviche. 90/100

Suntory Tomi No Oka Koshu 2021
The immense resources of the Suntory Group are behind this label and the money shows: this wine is fabulously made. It has real character on the nose, initially typical citrus and apple notes but then opening out to herbal and herbaceous notes, peach fuzz, green plums. Dry with decent but not bracing acidity, it is beautifully balanced. It is complex and has a long finish. Burgundian in style. Phenomenal. 91/100

Grace Wine Koshu Misawa Vineyard 2021
Grace’s varietal Koshu is widely available in the UK and is most people’s introduction to the grape and Japanese wine. This single vineyard wine however is rarer and is one of the finest expressions being produced today. The nose is entrancing, unfurling perfume-like citrus oils, white flowers, slate, white grapefruit, white peach, olive brine and herbs. It is so mineral on the palate, with that drying sensation offset by the crispest of fruits. Austere. It is chewy and textured. There is immense complexity and concentration. Again, Burgundian insomuch that the winemaking is so skillful. This should be on every serious wine list. 92/100