Lé Thio Noots, La Dame Verte 2020

Loire, France

Vibrant purple colour. Funky, bretty on the nose – farmyard in that not entirely pleasant way – though it dissipates pretty quickly leaving notes of raspberry, plums, heady herbs. It’s a bit smudgy on the nose but better defined on the palate with a load of acidity keeping it fresh. Moderate, grippy tannins. Decent finish. Very ‘natural’. Drink 2022-2025.

What is it? A natural Cabernet Franc showing berry fruit and pleasant savoury characteristics. When you first smell and taste it there are some notes that can smell a bit unusual, perhaps even faulty. Some people describe these aromas as like barnyard (horseshit, basically) or saddle (sweaty leather). Wine people love euphemisms!

What should I do with it? Drink it now with food. It’s a cold weather wine – enjoy it with hearty stews or roast meat.

What if I don’t like natural wine? If you like wine, you like natural wine! Most of what you’ve heard – and most of what I’ve ever said – about natural wine isn’t true. The good ones show wine grapes and wine regions at their purest. The aromas and flavours associated with the process can seem unusual and even unpleasant, but persevere. Try a wine like this one. Talk to sommeliers or your local wine shop. Two of my favourite recent restaurant finds have largely natural wine lists and I am hooked: they’re Ploussard and Soif, both in Clapham.

Rating: 88/100